Eldar Seer Council on Jetbikes

original post by Reece Robbins 

The much maligned Warlocks are actually a powerhouse unit when used correctly. Read on for more info!

The Deer Council

by: Grant Theft Auto from the Road to the Las Vgeas Open blog

Edited by Reecius from Frontline Gaming

Are you tired of your failing seer council? Are you frustrated with the randomness of the warlock powers you roll? Well, there is still hope and I’m going to tell you why! So grab your popcorn, put some new shorts on and go dust off those old warlocks because the whole band is back together and they’re better than ever.

Now before I start, this is my only warning; this is an extremely strong and competitive tournament build. This is the kind of build that makes your friends want to flip the table when they lose two riptides and a fire warrior squad in a multi-charge turn 2 and put the middle finger up at you indicating that you, sir, are no longer their punching bag!

Now what is the Deer council? If you haven’t seen any of my video battle reports at Frontline Gaming, or battle reports on Dakka or you haven’t played against someone who runs one then it’s a brand new concept to you. The Deer council is essentially a mix of the big three; Farseers, Warlocks, and the Baron. This synergy between the big three is essential to giving this death star its super strength. I’m going to explain the big three and tell you their weaknesses and strengths not because I want to ultimately ruin my run at tournament dominance but to help people understand why the council can be so dominating if played by the right person. So, first off every good death star needs a good start and without the Farseers nothing else would matter.

Lets start with the ones that lead the pack; the Farseers.

Starting from the top:

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Stats are decent

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Comes with witchblade/ shuriken, ghost helm, fleet and automatically level 3 physic

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Has access to powers from Runes of Fate, Divination, Telepathy

Not bad choice for an HQ. Now when you upgrade him you get lots of options some notables are:

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Singing Spear, Jetbike

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Runes of Warding, Runes of Witnessing

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Remnants of Glory

Now when I run my Farseers I run two, both on Jetbikes, both have Runes of Witnessing but each one has different weapons. First off my warlord always switches out his shuriken for the Shard of Anaris. This makes the Farseer a real threat in a challenge against monstrous creatures and strong HQ’s. The next thing is extremely important, the shard makes the entire council fearless. My next Farseer is equipped with the Fire Sabre, the only AP3 weapon that the Farseers can get. I put them both on jetbikes which is essential because it adds mobility plus it gives them a 3+ save and makes them T4.

Now when rolling for powers at the beginning, your first goal is to get fortune. Sadly without fortune your council has to be played a little bit more fragilely. Between the two Farseers you should get it once. The point of having two Farseers is to up your chances of getting fortune. There is always that one game when you will not get it and things suddenly are a whole lot tougher. After you’ve rolled fortune then it’s up to you to roll on the other charts. I usually go for Telepathy because I’m a huge fan of puppet master and terrify because the ability to take away a unit’s fearlessness is huge when considering assaulting it. Also the ability to take over your opponents the vehicle, riptide, or wraith knight and to destroy his own units is always priceless.

So now that we have the Farseers, now we need the bulk of the council. That’s where the warlocks come in.

Starting from the top:

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->For a command add on unit they have a good stat line, notables are WS4, I5, BS4, fleet but only LD8

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->They come with a witchblade/shuriken, 4++, and are Level 1 Physic

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Can access powers from the Runes of Battle

Can be upgraded with:

<!--[if !supportLists]-->· <!--[endif]-->Singing Spears and Jetbikes only

When you construct this unit, your primary goals is to increase your chances of getting the powers you want but also to increase the amount of bodies to soak up fire and perils of the warp. Keeping this in mind, I usually take a minimum size. if I’m going to include one in my list then I always include at least 8 warlocks. I then go ahead and upgrade them all to ride on jetbikes, this is the upgrade that makes this unit amazingly versatile and tough to take down. Just like the Farseers the warlocks gain a 3+ save and become T4. Now let’s talk about the one thing the council have benefited most from this new codex, the introduction of their own unique physic powers.

When you’re rolling for power at the beginning of the game the council’s powers become a huge role in how you run it. When I roll for powers, I always try to get some key powers that benefit the council. One important one is the Protect/Jinx power. This power is huge it makes your council a 2+ save, or it -1 save to an enemy within 18 inches. I once rolled four of these in a single game and made a riptide a 6+ save. Don’t underestimate this power; it makes your witch blades become extremely deadly against terminator like enemies. The rest of the powers are nice and they complement your council nicely, some notable ones are Empower/Enervate which gives you an extra punch in against vehicles or on your Hammer of Wrath hits. Another is Embolden/Horrify, this is a huge one that helps win multi assaults or paired with Terrify from the Telepathy chart helps you run an enemy off the board. Recently I used this combo on Aun’Va and a castling Tau player to get rid of the LD10 stubborn bubble that the army uses. I cast Horrify on him twice, which then dropped him down to LD4 stubborn and cast Terrify on him to make him run off the board edge. This is also effective against Demons and their instability check when assaulting them, you can eliminate more of them through a LD test then potentially the combat itself. The next power I’m a huge fan of is Destructor/Renewer, this power is huge it allows you to put down a S5 AP4 soul blaze template or revive a wound to anyone wounded within 18 inches. When I get two of these I usually put my Farseers in front to tanks wounds from smaller strength weaponry. The last power and the second most important power is Conceal/Reveal, this gives the council Shrouding or take away Stealth and Shrouding to an enemy within 18 inches. I always have at least two or three of these in my council, depending on who I’m playing. Every time the council moves an inch they get a 5+ jink save, now when the Barron is in the council they gain the Stealth bonus from his special rule bringing them up to a 4+ cover save. Lastly when you cast conceal on the council they gains shrouding which brings their save up to a 2+ cover save. Now when you have eight to ten warlocks rolling for powers at the beginning of games the odds of getting all the powers that you want go up. Now you’re starting to get the picture of how the Deer Council works, but don’t forget the last piece that makes this whole death star work; the Baron.

The Baron is the single most important unit to making this whole thing work, without him everything crushes inward from the lack of special abilities that the council has. Let’s show you why.

Starting from the top:

• Dirt cheap point wise
• Decent statline for a Dark Eldar HQ S4 from Hellglave, T3, LD10, A4, Power for pain, Skyboard
• 2++ Shadow field
• Give units he’s joined with; defensive and offensive grenades
• Stealth
• Gain +2 Strength on the charge with his skyboard
• With new GW FAQ, he adds +1 to your roll for determining who goes first
• Hit and Run

The Barron is a huge gain for all the amazing things he gives to the council and did I mention he is a real bargain at a little over a hundred points. First off when you’re rolling for who goes first he gives you a tiny bonus of +1 to that roll. Going first is huge with the council it allows your precious Warlocks and Farseers not to get alpha strike by your opponents big guns before your council can get their powers up. Next up, even though the Barron can’t turbo like the rest of the council he still keeps up with the back of the council with his 12 inch movement on his sky board. One key thing about the skyboard is that he doesn’t lose his fleet while on it because the rest of the council has fleet also. Now in the rule book it says you can’t run on bikes, but if everyone in the squad still has the fleet special rule then you can use it to reroll your charge distances when getting into those long multi assaults. Next thing that the Baron gives to your squad after they’re in close combat is the ability to Hit and Run away from the combat to bounce off to a weaker unit or set yourself up for a bigger multi charge so that you can wipe out multiple enemies. I have used this plenty of times to hit multiple weak units that are suddenly unprotected by their screen or counter assault units.

And don't forget about those Grissly Trophies! Wow those things help this unit as they allow you to reroll psychic checks. Also, the warlord trait that allows them the Warlocks to test on the Farseer's ld is amazing!

This unit is a true deathstar. It can be incredibly difficult to destroy and if you get +1 armor save and Fortune, they are effectively immine to small arms fire. Even AP 2 has to get through the 4++ reroll, and if you position the Baron correctly, a 2++ reroll. Doesn't get better than that.

The unit doesn't have amazing offense but they pack a wallop with fleshbane attacks, and a lot of them. With rerolls to hit and possibly to wound, you really maximize what offense they do have, and lowering enemy armor saves can be huge, too. This unit can and will win you the game on its own, and has done so for me many times.

Be wary of massed AP 2 attacks, Mind Strike Missiles are murder (although the Farseer can use his Ghost Helm to tank a lot of the wounds if positioned correctly) and getting alpha struck on turn 1 before you get juiced up is a real threat.

Foaming Up Your Fortifications!

originally posted on Warhammer 39,9999

Here is an article on the hobby side of things. I don't post as many of these as I probable should. Most of it is pretty much common sense but if you haven't seen this yet enjoy!

 

 

I apologize if the title seems misleading. I’m not intending to actually build foam: I’ll leave that to more established professionals. Instead, this post is about tailoring foam for my buildings–or more accurately, for my fortifications.
This past week I had some people over for games (including my recent game with Jeff), where it became pretty obvious that I need to do somethign with my terrain (and with the crap lying around my garage in general). I have too many models lying around with no real rhyme or reason. Hence, my renewed interest in foam.
I say “renewed interest” because I’ve done some pretty extensive work on custom foam with my Tyranids, but apparently I’ve never come up with a post on that (despite taking pictures of it back in the day with the specific intent to do so). Oh well, maybe one day I’ll get around to doing such a post. For now, suffice it to say that this isn’t my first rodeo.





The first time around, I’d purchased the foam from JoAnn Fabrics (a U.S. based arts & craft store similar to Michael’s or Hobby Lobby). The foam there was green, and only marginally cheaper than pre-cut foam; however, I had a 40% off discount which made it relatively viable. I’ve since switched to “camper” foam from Fred Meyer’s (which is our local grocery store/department store chain, which just so happens to be a Kroger affiliate for those of you in the rest of the U.S.). The new foam comes in approximately 2′ x 6′ sections of 3″ foam. It doesn’t appear to come in any other sizes, but it’s reasonably good and the best part is the price: $20 for a sheet. Well, that was the sale price, but the standard price is only about 10% higher.
So, I went down to the store and picked up a couple of sheets for use with my fortifications.
For tubs, I used some plastic containers that we purchased when we moved houses a few years back that just haven’t found contents on their own. These particular totes are from Sterilite, and I believe are referred to as their 66 quart latch box. The official dimensions are 24 1/2″ L x 17 3/4″ W x 13 3/8″ H, but I cut the foam to 19″ x 14.5″ in order to fit in the tapered bottom. Come to think of it, I’m not 100% sure that this is the exact tote, but it seems pretty close.
Anywho, each tote holds four layers of foam. Unfortunately, many of the buildings (if not most) are in excess of 3″ tall, so they need to span multiple layers to be properly stored. Fortifications like the Aegis defense line, most of the Wall of Martyr pieces, and the Honoured Imperium stuff all fits nicely within a single slab of foam. Other pieces, like the Aquila Strongpoint, Firestorm Redoubt, Bastions, & Fortress of Redemption all need at least two layers (in the case of the Bastions, it’s really close to three).





While I was at it, I also cut out foam for my IG weapon platforms (why not, right?), and intend to cut out foam for the “chaos portals” used in this apoc game. I’ve also not actually gotten around to cutting foam for the Fortress of Redemption because I’m having trouble finding a way to do so without taking up four complete layers of foam for it. I have an idea that might let me squish it down to three layers that I’m hoping to try tonight.
Undoubtedly, the foam that I’m most proud of is the tray that contains the Skyshield Landing Pad & Aegis Defense Lines.
Wait, is it ok to be proud of foam? I certainly am.
Anywho, the foam worked out well because of the weird shape of the Skyshield itself. Since it sits just over 3″ off the ground, it won’t fit into a single foam tray. Likewise, the dimensions of it are slightly bigger than the 14.5″ width of the tray, so it overhands a tad (which itself, isn’t an issue because I put it on the top of the stack, and the sloped sides of the plastic tote allow for the variance). But after I cut four holes, I didn’t know what to do with the extra foam. It seemed like such a waste to leave it empty… but then it hit me: the Aegis lines were quite small and should fit inside perfectly. With minimal fiddling, I was able to stick two sets in comfortable. I think with some serious thought,
I could’ve worked in a third.





I’m content with the foam as a whole. It wasn’t very expensive (mostly because I already had the totes on hand) and didn’t take all that much effort. Suffice it to say, this certainly doesn’t save space (or money really, but at least the foam was cheap). The intent is to keep things looking nice, which is true both of the garage (neatly stacked trays are far superior to piles of models), and for the models themselves, which are sure to whether my abuse/neglect far better in plastic/foam.